Comparing Nepal 1988 & 2013. Temple visits with Tibetans.
Visiting Nepal after a 25 year hiatus, I felt as if I was returning to find a battered wife, one I’d left long ago when she was a beautiful, fragile young woman.
Visiting Nepal after a 25 year hiatus, I felt as if I was returning to find a battered wife, one I’d left long ago when she was a beautiful, fragile young woman.
When I arrived in Nepal in 1988, on my way home from Japan, I wrote this sentence home to friends,
“If only for 15 minutes, everyone in the world should visit Nepal.”
Thuli, Mulkharta village |
The airport 25 years ago was a simple Quonset hut. Even before I arrived in Kathmandu, I was
introduced to Nepal’s poverty, as Nepal Airlines had only two aircraft in
those days. One flew and the other was
in constant repair, while passengers, already checked in, waited in a decrepit airlines-owned
hotel in Bangkok, lukewarm, murky water in the swimming pool.
Thinking today of the sleek, slick, security-sacrosanct airports of the world, it’s nostalgic to remember getting off that shaky airplane when it finally landed in Kathmandu, happy to be alive, walking across the tarmac, and digging through the luggage pile that had been hurled into the single room to find my backpack.
Sensory exhilaration. Stepping outside the airport, every sense was
bombarded. In one single minute, I
experienced more exotic colors, smells, and sounds than I’d ever felt in my
life. I stood amazed, savoring it,
breathing it, captivated by it.
University women wore school uniforms (sulwar
kurta) that were pants and overblouses of many different colors, while
other women walked about in a vibrant rainbow of saris. Men had Nehru hats
and baggy trousers (daura surawal). The smells nearly threw me to my feet –
curries, corianders, garlics, gingers, mints, lavenders, yarrows, boiling milk tea and
salt tea, fresh mountain streams, meat cooking, all laced with a faint aroma of human and animal sewage.
Still just minutes outside the little airport, I could see rows of open
shops selling everything a human hand could make – wooden kitchen utensils,
square packs of tea, piles of pali (bread),
buckets of hand-cut gravel, canisters of hand-pounded nails.
Tiny children ran about, often wearing a little shirt but no bottoms,
with older children in tow, looking after them, while mothers washed clothes in
gutters, sold piles of vegetables in the market, or gathered firewood in the
woods near the river.
That minute in Kathmandu made me realize I’d lived my life
in a sensory-starved world. After a week
of walking from shop to shop, making my own trekking arrangements, finding a
guide and renting a sleeping bag at a day price, I and
eight fellow Italian-Australian backpackers headed in a rickety bus over a dirt
road to Pokhara, gateway to the Himalayas, where roads ended and miles and
miles of walking paths, Nepal’s highways, began.
I’d held and nurtured that image since 1988 – Nepal as a Wild
West version of Norway – spectacular peaks in all directions – Dhaulagiri, Annapurna, Everest -- connected by rustic tea houses and one room schools, often
with a single text book and 100 children.
Nepal in 2013 had zoomed along on a highway of Third World
progress. The post-monarchy government is China-friendly, and Chinese-factory-made plastic goods – pails,
buckets, motor cycles, televisions – tumbled out of stores and supermarkets. Streets coughed up diesel and cycle exhaust
so thick that many people wore masks over their mouths. Even after 25 years of tree planting and cook stove projects by NGOs, women still burned with wood, so smoke
thickened the air. I was shocked to see
the beautiful green hills around the city now had mean clear-cut patches. Trucks trundled from the forests to the cities,
carrying lumber with thick trunks looking as if they’d been hand-hacked from old
growth forests.
The paved road to Pokhara, once a full day's bone rattling bounce, was now a 5-hour video game-come-to-life of trucks rushing head-long
toward one another then veering at the last minute, motor cycles passing on thin edges of highway, and all traffic following that
Third World rule of “anything goes, just don’t hit or get hit.” I took photos enroute of tangled city wiring.
Electricity for the 40% of Nepal that gets it is at least on
a schedule. You can look at a scrap of
paper posted in hotels, houses, and restaurants to see that yes, it will go on at 7 am today, be off at 10 am,
and then you’ll have to wait until 7 pm for another couple hours. Rolling black-outs. Maybe the shops across the street will be all
lit up, but you’d better have your computer, your cell phone, and your camera all
charged, your candle and flash light handy, otherwise you’ll stumble.
Nepal is way ahead of other cities, though, with extensive
solar lighting in place. The minute the
electricity goes off, solar lights, dim and few though they are, come on. Life barely pauses. People go about their cooking and shopping
and temple visiting in the dark, a candle here, a solar light there.
It is one thing to read about global warming and to hear
about thousands of acres of tropical forests being plundered to make way for
cattle, fields, firewood, Japanese chopsticks and IKEA furniture. It is another to stand at the edge of a
highway and see it, smell it, hear it.
Everyone my age and older remembers quieter streams, more
open fields, and more lush forests in our own home towns. And we’ve all been shocked to go back to
childhood places years later and not recognize them. In poorer countries like Nepal, however, the
hunger for progress is pulsating, throbbing, pounding. Machines tear away the earth to build high rises. No one clears away the rubble of the
buildings demolished. Kathmandu citizens
throw their garbage into rivers flowing straight down from most pristine
mountain steams in the world.
As I looked at the chaos, I asked, horrified,“Isn't anyone in charge here?”
Taking on Nepal's garbage. At a roadside stop, there was so much garbage strewn by a
little bus stop with benches that I started picking it up, putting it in a
cardboard box. My travel companions
yelled, “Leave it, Madeline. Leave
it! It’s dirty.” I ignored them and filled two boxes with
potato chip wrappers, gum wrappers, candy wrappers, Pepsi bottles, and aging
plastic bags. When I finished – everyone
just watching me disapprovingly – I glanced over the side of a drop-off and saw
a veritable sea of the same – cardboard boxes liked the one I’d just filled
with travelers’ debris blown across vast
fields. A moment of genuine despair,
hopelessness.
But landfills cost millions, and need systems of city
pick-up, and more importantly, taxes, to support them. And how do you collect taxes if people don’t
have jobs?
And how do I, who can fly blithely around the world and have a car
and a washer and dryer, tell poor people who badly want these things that they
are problematic. I can think of
solutions to the garbage dilemma – starting with each individual person putting
her own garbage into a proper place. But
it’s harder to think of solutions to the human desire for things wrapped in
plastic – TVs, stereos, cell phones, computers, iPods. I kept reminding myself that Nepal’s garbage is
just a tiny fraction of my own country’s vast mountains of daily discards.
The old Nepal of my dreams. At last I got away from Kathmandu and Pokhara and farther up
into the mountains. There I found the
old Nepal of my dreams. Fresh mountain
air, terraced fields, vast forests, smiling, engaging people on walking paths.
Just as 25 years ago, however, human beings toiled as beasts of burden, carrying firewood, hay, electrical wire, and bottles of beer piled high on their backs. Average income is $1,000/year; I believe in 1988 it was about $600/year, then as now with great disparities between rich and poor.
Just as 25 years ago, however, human beings toiled as beasts of burden, carrying firewood, hay, electrical wire, and bottles of beer piled high on their backs. Average income is $1,000/year; I believe in 1988 it was about $600/year, then as now with great disparities between rich and poor.
Women carrying firewood & cornstalks for water buffalo, Shivapari-Nagarju Nat'l Park
Norbu, monk at Thrangu Tashi Yangsu Monastery, laughed when I said I liked his hat.
He's completed 7 of his 15 years of study there.
Sherpa family in Shivapari-Nagarju National Park invited us to tea
Nepal's holy places. I was traveling with 12 Tibetans, on a Mecca-like holy trip
to the most famous Buddhist temples in Nepal. Every temple seemed built atop a mountain, where hundreds of monks
peacefully studied, prayed, and played soccer, seemingly unconcerned about the lack or pace of development in the valleys below. For the older Tibetans in our group, who began each day with mumbled prayers, this was a once-in-a-lifetime pilgrimage. In case you think temple visiting an easy activity, let me inform you that we were busy At every single temple, we lit
candles, spun prayer wheels, drank holy water, breathed in incense, gave coins
to beggars, fed grain to pigeons, fed bread to carp, sighted monkeys, dropped coins in the donation box, climbed hundreds of ancient stone steps, touched holy stones, asked for the blessing of
lamas. We wrote our
prayers on prayer flags and suspended them from the highest trees, sending our
hopes skyward.
Choesom spins prayer wheel, monks hold service, Swayambu Temple
Lhadon gets ready to add our prayer flags at the a site
Prayer flags at site of old Swanyambu Temple
The battered wife is a metaphor for the soiled progress of countries I traveled through 25 years ago, and a
painful reminder of my own – and most other people's -- waste, carelessness and
less-than-admirable devotion to environmental principles, while the prayer
flags bear my -- and our - hopes and
dreams for this world we share, fluttering in winds of possibility.
Madeline Uraneck
Kathmandu, March 10, 2013
When I traveled to Nepal in the late 70s I thought it was the country highest on my list for re-visiting. (Tho even then the view of Kathmandu from the surrounding hills was through a veil of smog.) Now, not at all as brave as Maddy, I wouldn't visit again. As I look around Madison parks, I see little litter but I know this is just surface--we are busy polluting in large and significant ways--you just can't see it.
ReplyDeleteMay the grace that is of the gods cast a welcomed cloud over your journeys...
ReplyDeleteHi Madeline,
ReplyDeleteEnvironmental consciousness is relatively new in the USA. I remember the Highway Beautification Act of 1965 having a profound affect on signage. EPA has only been around since 1970. Before that, you would need to hold your breath if you were driving through Gary, Indiana in a similar manner as you write about in Kathmandu.
Smelling the exhaust fumes from vehicles and motorbikes which do not meet EPA standards and are not imported into the USA can be eye opening.
However, just as in the USA, the environmental consciousness of the native population demanded change, so too will change only come through grass roots efforts by the population of Nepal...education during formative years.
Personally, given the choice between outhouses, and 80 dollar a month income with friendly natives, and what we have in this country with all our government agencies, I think I, like you, would prefer the primitive life.
Peace,
Gary
In 25 years..... Do you think people were happier with the way things are or were? Progress seems to be overrated , yet is the progress actually making things better for the people that live there?
ReplyDeleteGreat blog Maddy, looking forward to reading your new posts ,and catching up with you on your old posts.
Madeline,
ReplyDeleteAgain I am blessed to have met you on our trip to China. I love your letters, even those that are hard to read. Stay safe, be well and know you always have a friend in Vermont.
Peace,
Gail Kilkelly
Hi Madeline,
ReplyDeleteYour letters inspired me through my Peace Corps application process and subsequent service. I arrived at the same cross-roads about how to reconcile promoting conservation to the impoverished who struggle for their daily bread as they destroy the the environment...truly there is no easy answer when it seems they are doing the dirty work of the 1st world.
Thanks!